Saturday, May 30, 2009

Out with the Low and in with the High

Saturday, May 30th:
 
Rob called again today!  I was able to pass on your encouragements and messages from home if you asked.  He said that the low pressure system that had brought all of the snow was being replaced with some new high pressure.  This means that the weather will be improving.  The only drawback is that there is expected to be cold temperatures and strong winds during the transition period. 
 
Rob said though that it was sunny today when we were talking and that the team might make the move to 17k tomorrow potentially setting them up for a summit bid on Monday. 
 
This is hopeful news!  I'll pass more when I get it. 
 
Mark
 
From Lara: 

May 30, 2009 Saturday

Our team hasn't received much good news lately. The weather is said to continue on it's storm mood until monday or tuesday. Don't worry though because even though our team has been backed up a couple of days, they are still on schedule. Yesterday our team attempted to do a half carry to camp 17000 (or 16800.) My father called me at around 4 pm telling me they were going to try to do the half carry and that they would return in about 7 hours. I still have not received a call from him, so I am not aware of whether or not they succeed in that. Even if they were not able to go all the way up, this attempt will help them on their acclimazation. I wish there is more I can tell everyone, but to compensate for the lack of information on the climb, I will provide more information about the mountain.
 
Our mount Denali (also known as Mt. Mckinley) is known as one of the seven summits.
Denali- North America
Kilimanjaro- Africa
Aconcagua- South America
Elbrus- Europe
Carstensz- Oceania
Vinson- Antartica
Everest- Asia (Tallest mountain in the world)
 
Mount McKinley has a larger bulk and rise than Mt. Everest, although the summit of Everest is higher measured from sea level 29,028 feet (8,800 m). Everest's base sits on the Tibetan Plateau at about 17,000 feet (5,200 m), giving it a real vertical rise of a little more than 12,000 feet (3,700 m). The base of Mount McKinley is roughly a 2,000-foot (610 meter) plateau, giving it an actual rise of 18,000 feet (5,500 m).
 
The forces that lifted Mount McKinley—the subduction of the Pacific plate beneath the North American plate—also raised great ranges across southern Alaska. As that huge sheet of ocean-floor rock plunges downward into the mantle, it shoves and crumples the continent into soaring mountains which include some of the most active volcanoes on the continent. Mount McKinley in particular is uplifted relative to the rocks around it because it is at the intersection of major active strike-slip faults (faults that move rocks laterally across the Earth's surface) which allow the deep buried rocks to be unroofed more rapidly compared to those around them.
 
The first recorded attempt to climb Mount McKinley was by Judge James Wickersham in 1903, via the Peters Glacier and the North Face, now known as the Wickersham Wall. This route has tremendous avalanche danger and was not successfully climbed until 1963.
 
The mountain is regularly climbed today, with just over 50% of the expeditions successful, although it is still a dangerous undertaking. By 2003, the mountain had claimed the lives of nearly 100 mountaineers. The vast majority of climbers use the West Buttress Route, pioneered in 1951 by Bradford Washburn, after an extensive aerial photographic analysis of the mountain. Climbers typically take two to four weeks to ascend the mountain.

                                        

Friday, May 29, 2009

Storm at 14k

Friday, May 29th
 
I received another call from Rob yesterday afternoon.  He said it is supposed to snow another 6-12" in the next 36 hrs.  He said they're expecting 30mph winds and highs of -10F until Sunday.  He thinks Monday may be the first window of oportunity to press ahead to the upper mountain.  He expressed concern that he might not have enough time to stick it out because of work.  Let's hope for the best!
 
Below is a message I just received from Lara too:  
 
May 28, 2009 Thursday
 Just to get everything up-to-date, on Monday, our tired mountaineers woke up to find themselves working against the weather. They had to do a half carry of equipment to camp 14000 before the storm hit. They had a succesful half carry that took 6 hours for the climb and an hour and a half for the descent. My father told me that when they reached Windy Corner (a famous crevasse) it started to rain, and continued raining for the rest of their journey until reaching back down to camp 11000. When they were in camp 14000, Rob and Dan started to make the snow holes to protect the equipment, but once they shoveled away the fresh rain and snow, they encountered  already-made snow holes. That is the best part about climbing during the most crowded part of the season. Reusable items are found everywhere and previous climbers give advise about the landscape and climbing conditions. On Tuesday our team woke up at around 10:00 and at 11:00 they started to pack up all the equipment and take out their new snugly snow shoes to start the long climb back up to camp 14000. The weather was fine until they reached windy corner and then it stared to snow. It snowed all the way until they reached camp. Everyone unpacked and started the process of setting the tents for the storm. Everything was all dandy and in order, until someone noted that the tent poles were missing. Panic and confusion went straight into their minds, this was not going to go down very well after a 6 hour hike, when all they were thinking about was serving up dinner and laying down to rest. This was also a problem because if they would have left it in the previous camp, then someone would have had to gone back and run the risk of getting stuck in the storm. But luckely, the contents of the missing items were found in a random food bag. Everyone then proceeded to take a deep breath and relax, and fall back into the routine. The weather forecast for the next five days are High winds and snow. This means that the team will stay in Camp 14000 until the weather calms down and they acclimatize to the altitude and lack of pressure. Once the mountain is safe enough to continue climbing, the team will proceed to do another half carry to camp 16000. Camp 14000 is where teams get ready to summit. There is a permanent park rangers station, and people from around the world pass throught this Camp. Whether they pass through in dissapoinment or in victory, this is where all the teams come together to rest, prepare or quit. One Voice One Call has many interesting neighbors, from Italians to French and many other countries like Armenia, Germany, and Russia. All these people have one goal in there heads from the time they wake up to the time they pass out in exhaustion. All of them are brave people just accomplishing each one of their personal and different goals. There is never a boring moment in this camp, chatting around and even learning how to speak russian, are just a couple of the oppurtunites for entertainment. Even sitting on the toilet (which is in the middle of the camp and in the open) can be an uneventful experience, but forget the newspaper! "Look at how those Germans clean out their tents, how very sanitary!" Not only is the group being distracted from the terrible news of the storm but they are also healing from little injures. John has a blister that is healing and everyone is in fine spirits, even though Dan and karim have a strange sense of "deja vu" from last years Expedtion ,which ended in having to climb back down the mountain without reaching the summit,  we have hopes that this year however, they will succeed and reach their "call." Also, big thanks to Ralph! his support to the group has been great! he is keeping them imformed of the weather and is always there when they have needed him. 
 
 
     Note:
      - Here is a link of a map with the route and camps that the team is awaiting to conquer......
 
               http://classic.mountainzone.com/climbing/99/denali/graphics/map-climbingroute.jpg
 
                          
                        
 
                               

Thursday, May 28, 2009

Safe at 14k - Riding out a Storm

Thursday, May 28th
 
I received a brief call from Rob yesterday at about 2pm Denali time.  He said they had made it up to their 14,000' camp and now it was "nuking".  He said it was snowing a lot and the wind was blowing hard, but he seemed to be enjoying it!  We got cut off after about 30 seconds, so I wasn't able to pass any words on to him or to get any more information out of him.
 
In my experience being at 14,000' feet is the best place to be for a storm.  The team is high enough on the mountain that they are benefitting from the extra time and acclimation.  Its a lot warmer and easier on the body than being up at high camp too.  If they've got enough supplies to sit it out for a few days they'll be looking really good when the weather clears for a shot at the upper mountain.
 
Mark
 
 

Monday, May 25, 2009

Memorial Day

This just in from Lara! 
 
     May 25, 2009 Monday
             On Sunday our team woke up at around 10:30 am and started walking from camp 9700 to camp 11000. After a hard night the night before, in which they fell asleep at 3:30 am, the group started walking to camp 11000 at 12:30 pm and arrived at 5:30 pm. Everyone is fine and in good spirits. The weather has been good to them, and the beauty of the mountains is breathtaking. The sun is a main contributor to the "warm" weather.  Sometimes if climbers don't wear skin protection, they can get sunburn on their noses, (thanks to the sun reflecting off of the white snow, kind of like the tanning reflectors the teenagers use to get their already golden skin to a more prominent brown.) Can you imagine getting sunburn on your nose while climbing in -20 degree Fahrenheit weather?! I would also like to share that the team saw two military helicopters flying over the area, which is unusual unless they are on a rescue mission. Today, the team woke up at 6:00 am and carried half of the equipment to camp 14000 then they walked back to 11000. Now they will have to wait because the officials are saying that they are expecting a storm Tuesday and Wednesday. They say that it is getting very cold but it is still not incredibly cold. They planned to leave the snowshoes at 11,000 and switch to crampons. The goal of the team is to leave to camp 14000 today, before the storm hits. If they are delayed however, right now they are one day ahead of schedule. But I do not yet have the information to be able to tell you guys if they are leaving or if they are going to wait out the storm at camp 11000. From now on the climb gets tougher. Whether it's from weather conditions or tricky crevasses, the team will face some of the most challenging situations in their overall climbing experience.
 
 

Sunday, May 24, 2009

Moving to 11k Today!

Sunday, May 24th, 8:30 am: 
 
I just got a sat phone message from Rob!  He sounds great and seems to be doing really well.  He said that is has been really hot and that getting up ski hill was brutal hard work.  The team has been making great progress up the lower mountain under blue skies.  On Denali's lower flanks, even though the ambient temperatures are around freezing, the sun's radiation is intense and it's reflected off of the snow, making it "feel" like it's 80-100 degrees! 
 
They're moving from their 9700' camp up to their third camp located at 11,000' today!  Hopefully they'll get a little rest when they get there.
 
Mark

At Camp 2 9700' Tonight

It sounds like our guys have had a couple big days!  Here is another dispatch from our team written by Lara: 
 
May 23, 2009  Saturday
  Yesterday, Friday, our team finally were able to catch a flight into the Kahiltna Glacier. Here is what helpful Ralph sent me, saying, and i quote,  "I met the group early yesterday morning in Anchorage and helped transport them to Talkeetna.  What a great bunch of guys.  I think they are a strong group and the group dynamics look good.  I called Hudson Flying Service this morning and their pilot Jock Bondurant said he finally got them into Base camp on the Kahiltna Glacier around 6:00 p.m.  They are on their way now!" The first group left on their plane to the Glacier at 7:00 pm (with Karim, Dan and Tim), while the second group left at 8:30 pm (with John, Rob, and Andrew). When the second group arrived and the sleds were packed and ready, the group started their ascent to Camp 7,800 at 10:45 pm. My father informed me that the weather was good, not too cold and they very much enjoyed the view of the mountains and icy landscape. They arrived, after a long and treacherous walk, at 3:20 am. (This walk was  very hard and challenging because they had been awake for over 12 hours.) As quickly as they could, each in their own dreary sleepwalk, put up their tents and fell into a dreamless, deep sleep trying to recover from the ordeal of the day before. They awoke at around 8:00 am (Saturday) and broke their fast with partially frozen bagels and a hot drink. (Yummy!) Once getting everything ready (around noon) and in its place they started walking to Camp 9,700. Once reaching Camp 9,700, the team will rest for a little bit and then proceed to take half of the equipment up to Camp 11,000. Then they have to walk back down to Camp 9,700 and rest until the next awaking. Then i will have more information to contribute to everyone. 
 

Saturday, May 23, 2009

RE: The Fog Lifted

This should be called the "Snake Eaters' Summit", as all but one of the group are SOC personnel.  (For those unfamiliar with the term, dating back at least to the days of the Green Berets in jungles, special operators have been called "snake eaters.")
  Mark Marshall


-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Uberuaga [mailto:markuberuaga@hotmail.com]
Sent: Sat 5/23/2009 2:19 AM
To: usaf7summits blog; Marshall, Mark; cmarshallrd@mindspring.com; jetsetvet@hotmail.com; scrapadoo11@hotmail.com; abarr@ucdavis.edu; Sam Glaser; Marcel Bieg; mark.rockefeller@gmail.com; demgm79@gmail.com; helmscp@gmail.com; ferrellje@hotmail.com; courtball@earthlink.net; paqit@hotmail.com; taryn_mcdonald@hotmail.com; rmckinney@bankandoffice.com; Rob Marshall
Subject: The Fog Lifted


I heard from Rob Friday evening too and now it sounds like the weather has cleared enough for the pilots to make it up to base camp and back.  So, now they've loaded their planes and are on their way!

Below is more from Lara.

Mark

May 22, 2009  Friday
       So our group of excited mountaineers woke up at the early hour of 7:30 am, and started packing the much needed gear in Kevin and Ralph's vehicles. The Jeeps were so packed that it occurred once or twice in their minds to leave behind one of the group members, but that would be cruel, so everyone piled in as best they could. Once arriving at Talkeetna, they went straight to the NPS briefing and experienced a couple of hours of sleep-educing chatter and regulations to keep in mind. The highlight of the educational briefing was when they received The Green Bucket ,this is where the men will keep their bodily waste until the they climb back down the mountain... in June. (Mountain regulators are apparently very serious about littering!) The Team was supposed to leave on a flight to Kahiltna Glacier but due to fog, they will be stuck until the weather conditions become acceptable again. Kahiltna Glacier is the base camp where the men will be starting the expedition. To pass the time, they are going to town to eat a generous meal of pizza and burgers. After their lunch they will continue to check for updates and flight departures to see if they can leave tonight. Yesterday the men participated at a Crevasse Rescue Training, where i have been told, they enjoyed themselves very much, and ended the day with a night on the town and a nice dinner.


      I would like to add that this expedition is in memory of the fallen comrades in Afghanistan and Iraq. Two of whom, our mountain climbers are keeping close to their hearts and minds as they progress up the side of the thunderous Mt. Denali. They are Tom Maholic and Tom Valentine. Both were great outdoorsmen and amazing men. One Voice One Call is dedicating this to their memory.



Again i would like to clarify the identity of our team members:

Karim - Army Special Forces
Tim - Navy Seal
Dan - Civilian
John - Navy Seal
Rob - Airforce Special Operations - Pilot
Andrew - Army Special Forces



                          "I look up to the mountain - does my help come from there?
                           My help comes from  the Lord, who made heaven and earth!
                           He will not let you stumble ; the one who watches over you
                           will not slumber. Indeed, He who watches over Israel never
                           slumbers or sleeps. The Lord Himself watches over you! The Lord
                           stands beside you as you protective shade. The sun will not
                           harm you by day, nor the moon at night. The Lord keeps you
                           from all harm and watches over your life. The Lord keeps watch
                           over you as you come and go now and forever."  
                                                                                              -Psalm 120



                                                     - Lara <3


 

This message is private or privileged. If you are not the person for whom this message is intended, please delete it and notify me immediately, and please do not copy or send this message to anyone else.

Please be advised that, if this communication includes federal tax advice, it cannot be used for the purpose of avoiding tax penalties unless you have expressly engaged us to provide written advice in a form that satisfies IRS standards for "covered opinions" or we have informed you that those standards do not apply to this communication.

The Fog Lifted

I heard from Rob Friday evening too and now it sounds like the weather has cleared enough for the pilots to make it up to base camp and back.  So, now they've loaded their planes and are on their way!
 
Below is more from Lara.
 
Mark
 
May 22, 2009  Friday
       So our group of excited mountaineers woke up at the early hour of 7:30 am, and started packing the much needed gear in Kevin and Ralph's vehicles. The Jeeps were so packed that it occurred once or twice in their minds to leave behind one of the group members, but that would be cruel, so everyone piled in as best they could. Once arriving at Talkeetna, they went straight to the NPS briefing and experienced a couple of hours of sleep-educing chatter and regulations to keep in mind. The highlight of the educational briefing was when they received The Green Bucket ,this is where the men will keep their bodily waste until the they climb back down the mountain... in June. (Mountain regulators are apparently very serious about littering!) The Team was supposed to leave on a flight to Kahiltna Glacier but due to fog, they will be stuck until the weather conditions become acceptable again. Kahiltna Glacier is the base camp where the men will be starting the expedition. To pass the time, they are going to town to eat a generous meal of pizza and burgers. After their lunch they will continue to check for updates and flight departures to see if they can leave tonight. Yesterday the men participated at a Crevasse Rescue Training, where i have been told, they enjoyed themselves very much, and ended the day with a night on the town and a nice dinner.
 
 
      I would like to add that this expedition is in memory of the fallen comrades in Afghanistan and Iraq. Two of whom, our mountain climbers are keeping close to their hearts and minds as they progress up the side of the thunderous Mt. Denali. They are Tom Maholic and Tom Valentine. Both were great outdoorsmen and amazing men. One Voice One Call is dedicating this to their memory.
 
 
 
Again i would like to clarify the identity of our team members:
 
Karim - Army Special Forces
Tim - Navy Seal
Dan - Civilian
John - Navy Seal
Rob - Airforce Special Operations - Pilot
Andrew - Army Special Forces
 
 
 
                          "I look up to the mountain - does my help come from there?
                           My help comes from  the Lord, who made heaven and earth!
                           He will not let you stumble ; the one who watches over you
                           will not slumber. Indeed, He who watches over Israel never
                           slumbers or sleeps. The Lord Himself watches over you! The Lord
                           stands beside you as you protective shade. The sun will not
                           harm you by day, nor the moon at night. The Lord keeps you
                           from all harm and watches over your life. The Lord keeps watch
                           over you as you come and go now and forever."  
                                                                                              -Psalm 120
 
 
 
                                                     - Lara <3

Friday, May 22, 2009

News From Talkeetna

Hi everyone!
 
I'm super excited for Rob and his team and I hope you are too.  I'm going to pass any information I get on to you all throughout the climb.  First news has already come in from Lara.  Her father is Karim and she said that fog on the mountain precluded the team from flying on today.  Hopefully we'll have another chance to hear from Rob if this is actually the case.
 
Below is a message she just sent out.
 
Mark
 
ps Don't hesitate to call me if you have any questions or concerns about what Rob is up to.  My number is 520-400-5060.

News From Talkeetna

Hello Everyone,
 
          My name is Lara and i was asked by my father, Karim, to keep you guys in touch with the Denali expedition. I will be sending continuous emails letting you know of their progress. If anyone would like to be taken off of the list, please just send me an email telling me to do so. :)
 
Our team members:
Karim
Tim
Dan
John
Rob
Andrew
 
            In case anyone is unfamiliar with One Voice One Call, (name chosen by me) this team is a group of 6 men who are going to be climbing the famous Mt. Denali (the highest mountain in North America) in the course of the next month (hopefully). Right now, the team has arrived at Anchorage. Kevin flew in on the weekend (one of the biggest supporters in this expedition!) , while Tim and John arrived Tuesday night, Dan Wednesday morning, followed by Karim, Andrew and Rob on Wednesday night.
            Kevin, Dan, Tim and John spent most of the day (Wednesday) purchasing the expedition food, what a sight, "Four guys trying to find their way in the intricate labyrinth of a grocery store".
           
       May 21 2009, Thursday
                Todays schedule includes, organizing and packing all the food and equipment, as well as getting any hard to find, missing climbing gear ready for the trip. They finished the preparations at 3 pm and are going to have a group meal later on. Last minute preparations will be after, and resting for tomorrow will proceed. Tomorrow they plan to leave at 7:30am. Ralph Baldwin (another major supporter, who lives in a small town in between Anchorage and Talkeetna. Also where Palin is from!) and Kevin will be taking them to Talkeetna. At noon there will be a NPS breifing and if the weather permits they fly to Kahiltna Glacier and begin the adventure...
 
* Quick Note: The name One Voice One Call represents the overall motivation of the team members. All the men are climbing together as one voice, but all of them have different calls or motives for climbing and being heard. This climb is a very important time for each and everyone of these men. I am personally very proud of this group and i wish them the safest, most exciting and fulfilling climb of their lives :) *
 
          Please if anyone would like to add anything or have me post something just reply, telling me what to write and what you would like to say!
 
 
                        "How beautiful on the mountains are the feet of the messanger
                         who brings good news, the good news of peace and salvation,
                         the news that the God of Israel reigns!"
                                               -Isaiah 52:7
 
 
 
                                                                    Thanks,
                                                                            Lara <3

Climbers in Anchorage

26th St Hostel, Anchorage

Leaving for Talkeetna

Howdy everyone!  Just a quick note to say we're doing great here in Alaska.  It's early morning on the 22nd and we are just about to leave for Talkeetna.  Once there, we will get a briefing from the National Park Service on Denali rules and safety issues.  Then we'll load up into planes from Hudson Air and fly onto the glacier.  From here on out, Mark Uberuaga will be spreading the news we send out.  If I can upload a picture in time, I'll try it!
 
Hopefully I'll run into several other Air Force climbers who are flying onto the glacier this morning.  We will have quite the mixed group climbing near each other- Air Force, Army, and Navy special operations... quite the joint effort!
 
Climb High, Fly Low-  Rob